Qinghai Part II, Aug. 25
In August of 2024 I was kindly invited along for a photo trip to the Tibetan autonymous region of Qinghai, in the Northwestern area of China. The trip was a real mixture of feelings and emotions. Awestruck, disappointed, admiration, confusion. The trip there in 2024 left me with far moe questions than answers, and upon reflection from returning from there I felt like I hadn’t had the chance to see 1% of what I’d dreamt of. So, in the summer of this year, 2025, when I was once again asked if I’d like to make the same return trip, I jumped at the chance. Most of it was to be similar to last year, except this time it was a couple of days shorter, so after considering travel time, it was to be a slightly rushed flying visit. It takes a day and a half to get there, from door to door, and the a full day back. (To read more about the journey and flights, check the last installment of this, check Qinghai, Aug. 24 — InnerReflection.net ) So minus travel time, the time we actually had there to take it all in was just 3 days. Now this is a place a lot of retired photographers from China choose to move to and live out their days, as the area is so incredibly vast and diverse with wildlife, a real feast for the senses. Attempting to see much in 3 days, with a packed itinerary made up of mostly non-photographic things, was basically futile. But, it was a paid trip, and my week was free. It would be a lot of time spent travelling, but I had an itch that hadn’t been scratched from last year. I just hoped this year we might have more freedom to actually be photographers, and not just visitors.
Same as last year, the reason for visit was to take part in their huge annual photography and imaging event. The first day after finally arriving in Yushu via the travel-hub city of Xining, was to witness the massive stage event, beginning with 90 minutes of speeches from local officials. You can imagine just how thrilling that was. Then the event moves on to singers, dancers, even with a bit of hiphop thrown in this year. It all concludes with a big firework display, which seems to last forever and must have cost the local authorities a fortune. In fact, the whole thing must cost a kings ransom, but the main purpose of it all is to illuminate the area in the hopes of alluring tourism, a much needed income for this area of unspoilt natural beauty. The next day was spent much the same as it was the previous year, visiting local museums and “places of interest” that rarely manage to raise your heartbeat. The local authorities are paying for it all, so it’s par for the course to just go along with it and hope you have fun. It was ok, somewhat dull, but the people there were all really pleasant, and the change of scenery from the SUV window was a sight to see.
Day 4 was the by far the most enjoyable, albeit unexpectedly so. We were told we were to go off in little groups, 4-a car in each of the flashy SUV’s provided for the trip, and actually do what we came to do; take photos. Despite all the travel time and other schedule obligations, this day was truly to make up for it all. We headed out early, and spent the day flying around mountain roads and dirt tracks, off roading, crashing through streams and stopping anytime we saw something cool. The people were all keen photographers and journalists, and with a shared mindset and love of photography we had an incredible day. We even chanced upon a gang of wild monkeys crossing our path, going from a nearby forest, through a river (yep, they all swam, some even stayed in there swimming for enjoyment) and eventually heading up the side of a forested mountain. One local guy told us that seeing them like that, in such a large group (around 35-40) and them being so chilled, was quite a rare occurance. But clearly they were somewhat used to human contact, as they were all happy to hold their hands out for biscuits and whatever food we offered them. The big boss monkey was far bigger than I’d anticipated, he must have stood close to a metre tall, with claws and teeth that you don’t want to deal with. During the day we even got a little bit too close to the Tibetan border, and the police spotted me, the only foreigner in the group, and we had to stop and do some explaining. 30 minutes, several photographs, signatures, and one set of fingerprints later, I was told I’d have to take another car and drive around the border area. Unsurprisingly, no foreigners are allowed. But that was fine, the people in this other SUV were super cool, and we took a big detour and stopped at a salt farm field. It was insanely hot, but absolutely fascinating to see up close. The day eventually wrapped up, and although it was only one day out of the trip, my itch had been victoriously scratched. I’d seen far more of what I’d wanted to see, experienced the unapologisizing nature of the area. I was left feeling speechless. It was so beautiful, so rough, so unforgiving, so idyllic, so pure. There are some days, some memories, you’ll take to the grave with you. This was one of those days for me.
The final day before we parted ways and made our way home, was also pretty enjoyable. We spent sometime at this incredible monastary on the side of a mountain, then on to a buddhist art museum. The only thing that spoiled the art musieum for me was seeing a monk kick a dog. I thougt these were people of peace, who believed in the sanctity of all life? Yeh, clearly not all. Wanker. After that, the weather hit us hard with gales and a biblical downpour, so off we went to the hotel. Our trip was coming to an end, and even though it was shorter than the previous year, I came away feeling that I’d experienced far more. It’s hard not to be impressed when you are there, there’s a reason it calls itself “a photographers heaven.” It truly is just that. My photos from the trip are pretty forgettable, but it taught me to lighten up on myself a bit, to forget about the camera, and just enjoy the surroundings. Visiting this area is a once in a lifetime experience, and thankfully one I’d managed twice. If there is another trip there next year, I’ll be patiently in the queue. We only get one lifetime, and the older you get, the quicker it goes. Life is for living. Go live a little.
A monk takes a few snaps at the fireworks display.
Photography Notes; On the 2024 trip there to Qinghai, the temperatures varied significantly. It could be 28-degrees in the afternoon, but 4-degrees at night, so I needed to be sure my camera wouldn’t have a hissy-fit and not work for me. The workhorse Canon 5D4 and the 24-105 f4 lens was the perfect pair. I think I also had the Sigma 50mm Art f1.4 lens with me, but I don’t think I used it once. Thinking about it now, if I have the chance to return to the area I’ll take the 17-40 superwide lens next time. The hardest thing to me was not being able to show just how gargantuan the mountain ranges are there. They just don’t look right on my photos, there’s nothing to give a sense of scale to these behemoths. I’m by no means a landscape photographer, and I saw that some of the others there were getting far better shots than I was. I just can’t really visualize landscape scenes, my brain somehow isn’t able to see what they see. Kudos to them and their wise eyes in capturing what I was unable to.
Regarding the trip itself, I can’t recommend it enough to a keen outdoors photographer. The town of Yushu is very welcoming to tourists and foreigners, with penty of local amenities, restaurants, even a few bars to warm up in the evening over a whisky. Yushu has developed as a town a lot since my trip there the previous year, and I heard that photography trips there are not an unusual occurance. Personally I’d suggest hiring a car or driver when you get there, and stop and start as you please. Last year I felt frustrated when we would drive right past the most stunning landscape photo opportunity, only to eventually stop at some local government museum of inkbrush paintings or whatever. Get a car, get up early, and you will not be disappointed. The area is epic. For a wildlife and landscape photographer, it’s sublime. The giant mountains are breathtaking, with rollling hills and green pastures that never cease to amaze the eyes. If you have a telephoto lens, take it. Last year in the far off distance I saw a bear and one of those gorgeous white foxes, but they both rapidly disappeared. If I were to plan a photo trip for an outdoors photographer, there’s not any better place I’ve experienced here in China than Qinghai. I truly hope to be back there again sometime.
